The Hawittas
The hawittas of Kudahuvadhoo are among the most enigmatic archaeological structures in the Indian Ocean. These large mounds, constructed from precisely cut and dressed coral-stone blocks, were already ancient and mysterious when the first Muslim scholars arrived in the Maldives. The largest hawitha on Kudahuvadhoo originally stood several metres high and covered a substantial footprint, though centuries of erosion, vegetation growth, and stone removal for building material have reduced the structures from their original dimensions. What remains is still impressive — the coral blocks are cut with a precision and consistency that speaks of organised labour, technical skill, and sustained purpose. The blocks fit together tightly, and some show evidence of careful shaping to achieve specific angles and curves within the overall structure.
Thor Heyerdahl's Investigation
The Norwegian explorer and archaeologist Thor Heyerdahl visited the Maldives in 1983 and 1984, drawn by reports of ancient structures that did not fit the conventional narrative of Maldivian history. Heyerdahl was particularly fascinated by the hawittas on Kudahuvadhoo, which he examined and documented extensively. In his book "The Maldive Mystery," published in 1986, Heyerdahl argued that the hawittas bore striking similarities to structures built by ancient sun-worshipping cultures, and he proposed connections to pre-Buddhist and pre-Hindu civilisations that may have inhabited the Maldives before the arrival of the religions currently associated with the archipelago's pre-Islamic period. His investigations also uncovered carved stone blocks with sun-symbol motifs and other decorative elements that he interpreted as evidence of a sophisticated pre-Buddhist culture with connections to ancient civilisations in the wider Indian Ocean region.
Pre-Islamic Maldives
The hawittas on Kudahuvadhoo are part of a broader archaeological picture that is gradually emerging across the Maldives. Similar structures have been found on other islands, though none as impressive as those on Kudahuvadhoo. Historical sources and archaeological evidence indicate that the Maldives was settled at least two thousand years ago, and that the islands went through successive religious phases — likely beginning with animist or nature-worship traditions, followed by Buddhism (which left temples and stupas on several islands), and then Hinduism, before the official conversion to Islam in 1153 CE. The hawittas may correspond to any of these phases, or to transitions between them. Some scholars believe they are Buddhist stupas that have been modified or partially dismantled over the centuries, while others argue for earlier origins.
Theories and Debates
The purpose and age of the hawittas remain subjects of scholarly debate. The Buddhist stupa theory is supported by the general shape of the mounds and by the discovery of Buddhist artefacts on other Maldivian islands with similar structures. However, the precision of the coral-stone cutting on Kudahuvadhoo has led some researchers to question whether the techniques are consistent with known Buddhist construction methods in the region. Heyerdahl's sun-worship theory, while imaginative, has been criticised by some mainstream archaeologists as speculative, though his documentation of the structures themselves remains valuable. More recent theories suggest possible Hindu temple origins or connections to ancient maritime trading networks that linked the Maldives to civilisations in South Asia, the Middle East, and East Africa. The truth may never be fully resolved — the Maldives' warm, humid climate and coral-stone geology are unkind to organic materials that might provide radiocarbon dating, and the political and religious complexities of investigating pre-Islamic heritage in a Muslim country add additional layers of difficulty to archaeological research.
Visiting the Sites
The main hawittas on Kudahuvadhoo are accessible to visitors, though they are not formally managed as tourist sites with signage or guides. Local residents can direct you to the most significant structures, and some are willing to share their knowledge and family stories about the mounds. The hawittas are scattered around the island rather than concentrated in one location, so a guided walk with a knowledgeable local is the best way to see them all and understand their context within the island landscape. Photography is welcome, and the combination of ancient stone structures set among tropical vegetation and coral-stone homes creates a visual environment that is unlike anything else in the Maldives. For anyone with an interest in archaeology, ancient mysteries, or the hidden history of the Indian Ocean, the hawittas of Kudahuvadhoo are a genuinely significant and deeply affecting destination.