Maldivian Fish Curry
Maldivian fish curry (mas riha) is the everyday staple of island kitchens — tuna or reef fish simmered in spiced coconut milk with curry leaves and pandan. Learn how it is made and served.
Centuries of Indian Ocean trade brought cumin, turmeric, and cardamom to Maldivian kitchens, where they blended with local curry leaves and pandan to create a distinctive island spice palette.
The Maldives sits at the crossroads of ancient maritime trade routes that once carried spices between India, Sri Lanka, the Arab world, and Southeast Asia. Despite having very limited agricultural land, the islands developed a rich and distinctive approach to spicing food — one that draws on imports from across the Indian Ocean while making the most of what can be grown locally.
The result is a cuisine that is warmly spiced rather than fiercely hot, with layers of flavour built from aromatic leaves, dried spice blends, and the slow infusion of coconut milk. Understanding the key spices is essential to understanding Maldivian food as a whole.
Several spices and aromatic ingredients appear again and again in Maldivian cooking:
The single most important spice preparation in Maldivian cooking is havaadhu, a homemade curry paste or powder that serves as the foundation for most curries and many other dishes. Havaadhu is made by grinding together a mixture of dried spices — typically cumin, coriander, fennel, fenugreek, turmeric, black pepper, cardamom, cloves, and dried chili — into a fine paste or powder.
Every family has its own havaadhu recipe, and the proportions vary from island to island and atoll to atoll. Some versions are heavy on cumin and coriander for an earthy warmth; others lean into chili for more heat. The paste is often prepared in large batches, especially before Ramadan or festival seasons, and stored for weeks of cooking.
Havaadhu is what gives Maldivian fish curry its characteristic depth — a layered, aromatic warmth that is distinctly different from the curries of India or Sri Lanka, even though the individual spices overlap.
The Maldives' position in the Indian Ocean made it a natural stopping point for trading vessels moving between the spice-producing regions of South and Southeast Asia and the markets of the Middle East and East Africa. Arab, Indian, and Sri Lankan traders brought spices to the islands, and Maldivian traders themselves carried cowrie shells and dried fish — two of the archipelago's most valuable exports — to foreign ports and returned with spices, rice, and other goods.
The influence of Sri Lankan cuisine is particularly evident in the Maldivian spice palette. Curry leaves, pandan, cinnamon, and the general approach to building curry flavours all point to a strong connection with the cooking traditions of the island's nearest large neighbour. South Indian influences are also present, visible in the use of mustard seeds in some preparations and the emphasis on coconut-based curries.
The coral-sand soil and limited land area of most Maldivian islands make large-scale agriculture impractical, but several aromatic plants thrive in the tropical climate. Curry leaf trees, pandan plants, chili bushes, and lemongrass grow in home gardens across the archipelago. These locally grown aromatics provide the fresh component of Maldivian spicing, while dried spices like cumin, coriander, and cardamom continue to be imported.
On larger agricultural islands like Thoddoo, you can sometimes find small-scale cultivation of turmeric and ginger, but the majority of dried spices arrive by boat from India and Sri Lanka, just as they have for centuries.