Rihaakuru

The thick, dark, intensely savoury fish paste that is the secret weapon of Maldivian kitchens — a condiment with centuries of history and a flavour unlike anything else.

What Is Rihaakuru?

Rihaakuru is a thick, concentrated fish paste made by slowly reducing a broth of skipjack tuna until it becomes a dense, dark, almost tar-like substance with an extraordinarily intense umami flavour. It is one of the most distinctive ingredients in Maldivian cuisine — a condiment, cooking ingredient, and preserved food all in one.

The name can be roughly translated as "curry reduction" (riha meaning curry or gravy, kuru meaning thick or reduced). And that translation captures the essence of what rihaakuru is: a fish broth that has been cooked down over many hours until virtually all the water has evaporated, leaving behind a concentrated paste that is packed with protein, salt, and deep savoury flavour.

How Rihaakuru Is Made

Making rihaakuru is a labour-intensive process that traditionally takes most of a day. The basic method has remained unchanged for generations:

  1. Fresh skipjack tuna is cleaned, cut into pieces, and boiled in a large pot with water. This first boiling is essentially the same process used to make garudhiya, the clear fish broth.
  2. The fish pieces are removed (and may be used to make dried Maldive fish), but the broth is kept on the heat.
  3. The broth is then simmered and stirred continuously for hours — sometimes six to eight hours or more — as the liquid slowly reduces. Salt, onion, and sometimes curry leaves or chili may be added during the process.
  4. As the liquid evaporates, the broth thickens progressively from a thin soup to a heavy, sticky paste. The colour darkens from light brown to deep chocolate brown or nearly black.
  5. When the paste is thick enough to hold its shape on a spoon and has developed a rich, glossy sheen, it is done.

The resulting rihaakuru is intensely flavoured — salty, fishy, and deeply savoury, with a complexity that comes from hours of slow caramelisation. A little goes a very long way.

How Rihaakuru Is Used

Rihaakuru is remarkably versatile in the Maldivian kitchen:

A Preserved Food for Island Life

Before refrigeration, rihaakuru served a crucial practical purpose: it was a way to preserve the protein and nutrients of a tuna catch in a form that could last for weeks or even months without spoiling. The extreme reduction removes virtually all moisture, and the high salt content further inhibits bacterial growth. Jars of rihaakuru could be stored at room temperature and drawn upon whenever fresh fish was unavailable — during rough weather, poor catches, or long voyages.

This preservation function connects rihaakuru to a broader family of fermented and concentrated fish products found across Asia — from Thai shrimp paste to Japanese bonito essence. All serve the same purpose: capturing the flavour and nutrition of the sea in a form that endures.

Trying Rihaakuru

For visitors, rihaakuru is an acquired taste. The aroma is strong and the flavour is intensely fishy — far more concentrated than anything most Western palates are accustomed to. But for those willing to try, it offers a direct connection to the flavours that have sustained Maldivian communities for centuries.

You are most likely to encounter rihaakuru at local island guesthouses and in the homes of Maldivian families. Some resorts include it on Maldivian-themed menus. The best way to start is the simplest: a thin spread on warm roshi with a cup of tea. If you enjoy strong, savoury flavours — think Marmite, anchovy paste, or dark miso — you may find rihaakuru surprisingly addictive.